Les Petits Plats, B; and La Tete dans Les Olives, a Taste of Sicily in the 10th
It was a relief to see the fire-engine red painted facade of Les Petits Plats when I finally arrived for dinner the other night after a long Metro ride and then a bracing walk, and the welcome at this...
View ArticleLE BAR A HUITRES: Neptune’s Bounty, B+; LE CASSE-NOIX: Good Modern Bistro...
L’ECAILLEUR @ Bob Peterson A longtime ago, when I’d first learned to eat oysters as the result of a short but memorable love affair during my first few months in Paris, I’d often go to Le Bar a...
View ArticleHUGO DESNOYER, Paris: The World’s Best Butcher
I like to think of myself as an honest man, but in Paris, there’s one instance in which I am regularly unfaithful whenever the occasion arises. Most of the time I buy my meat at the Boucherie Chaptal...
View ArticleL’ATELIER D’ANTAN–Great Bistro Food and A Really Good Time, Too: B+
On the way to meet a friend for dinner at L’Atelier d’Antan the other night, I found myself musing on a subject that’s been preoccupying me for the last week or so. To wit, has culinary media pushed...
View ArticleLE SEVERO–A Steak in the Grass, A-/B+
“Mais attendez, Monsieur–you brought steaks back to France with you from the United States? Vous etes completement fou ou quoi?” (Are you completely crazy or what?) Well, I’m not going to touch that...
View ArticleLA COUPOLE, Paris–In Remembrance of Things Long Past, C
Some strange and generally wonderful things have happened to me because of Facebook. A few days ago, I had a message from a woman I’ll call Amanda, a friend I hadn’t seen since high-school graduation....
View ArticleAUX ENFANTS GATES, Paris–A Bistro that Sincerely Spoils You in Montparnasse, B+
On my way to meet Bruno and some friends for dinner the other night, I was in sort of a bad mood. An old college friend had called for a chat just before I went out, and it had been terrific to catch...
View ArticleLe Duc, Paris–A Deliciously Noble Catch-of-the-Day in Montparnasse, A-/B+
After I stepped into the vestibule at Le Duc, a long-running seafood house in Montparnasse, a delightfully nostalgia-freighted evening pushed out from the dock the moment I was seated at a corner...
View ArticleL’Assiette, Paris | A Superb Bistro in Montparnasse, A-
L’Assiette @ Stephane Riss Chef David Rathgeber’s restaurant L’Assiette is not only the best bistro in Montparnasse, but one of the best bistros in Paris. Why? I’ll let the chef himself explain why...
View ArticleLes Petits Plats, B; and La Tete dans Les Olives, a Taste of Sicily in the 10th
It was a relief to see the fire-engine red painted facade of Les Petits Plats when I finally arrived for dinner the other night after a long Metro ride and then a bracing walk, and the welcome at this...
View ArticleLE BAR A HUITRES: Neptune’s Bounty, B+; LE CASSE-NOIX: Good Modern Bistro...
L’ECAILLEUR @ Bob Peterson A longtime ago, when I’d first learned to eat oysters as the result of a short but memorable love affair during my first few months in Paris, I’d often go to Le Bar a...
View ArticleHUGO DESNOYER, Paris: The World’s Best Butcher
I like to think of myself as an honest man, but in Paris, there’s one instance in which I am regularly unfaithful whenever the occasion arises. Most of the time I buy my meat at the Boucherie Chaptal...
View ArticleL’ATELIER D’ANTAN–Great Bistro Food and A Really Good Time, Too: B+
On the way to meet a friend for dinner at L’Atelier d’Antan the other night, I found myself musing on a subject that’s been preoccupying me for the last week or so. To wit, has culinary media pushed...
View ArticleLE SEVERO–A Steak in the Grass, A-/B+
“Mais attendez, Monsieur–you brought steaks back to France with you from the United States? Vous etes completement fou ou quoi?” (Are you completely crazy or what?) Well, I’m not going to touch that...
View ArticleLA COUPOLE, Paris–In Remembrance of Things Long Past, C
Some strange and generally wonderful things have happened to me because of Facebook. A few days ago, I had a message from a woman I’ll call Amanda, a friend I hadn’t seen since high-school graduation....
View ArticleAUX ENFANTS GATES, Paris–A Bistro that Sincerely Spoils You in Montparnasse, B+
On my way to meet Bruno and some friends for dinner the other night, I was in sort of a bad mood. An old college friend had called for a chat just before I went out, and it had been terrific to catch...
View ArticleLe Duc, Paris–A Deliciously Noble Catch-of-the-Day in Montparnasse, A-/B+
After I stepped into the vestibule at Le Duc, a long-running seafood house in Montparnasse, a delightfully nostalgia-freighted evening pushed out from the dock the moment I was seated at a corner...
View ArticleL’Assiette, Paris | A Superb Bistro in Montparnasse, A-
L’Assiette @ Stephane Riss Chef David Rathgeber’s restaurant L’Assiette is not only the best bistro in Montparnasse, but one of the best bistros in Paris. Why? I’ll let the chef himself explain why...
View ArticleOrigins 14 – La Régalade | Chef Ollie Clarke’s Great Bistro Cooking for the...
Chef Ollie Clarke Smoked lamb carpaccio at Origins 14 – La Regalade British chef Ollie Clarke has bought the legendary La Régalade in the 14th Arrondissement and is transitioning it towards a new...
View ArticleMoSuke, Paris | Mory Sacko’s Exquisite Franco-Afro-Japanese Cuisine, A-/B+
As the months roll by during the second national lockdown of France’s restaurants, I often find myself thinking of chef Mory Sacko and his intriguing restaurant MoSuke. The reason why is that I...
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